1.ABOUTTHEFILM
--Shows the true to British‘s past--experton British royal ceremony英国皇室礼仪专家
In case to cast and crew on set at Downton Abbey~~
The life of the people in downton abbey are aglory of rirual and grandeur.极尽奢华
The aristictocrats of Edwardian England and their servants lived by a very odd set of rules, a world away from the way we behave today.
Manners came into everything~
every detail mattered, it said who you were and where you belonged. were you from above stairs or below?
e.i.
you are a footman, and a footman wears gloves.
e.i.
-Don't call her "your Grace", callher "duchess".
-If I were to search for logic, I should not look for it among the English upper class.
The manners of DT, are not just about how to addressa duchess, or which knife and fork to pich up.
They're much more important than that. It's key to how these people lived.
Edwardian England was a time of great change. Both the industrial revolution and the great war has altered everything.
It seemed that centuries of tradition were all passing away. For the aristocracy, they felt they would lose all of it.
2.ALL THE MANNERS 各类礼仪
● HOW TO EAT
--The Edwardians liked to eat sumptuously. showing off was a part of it.
But it was not all about the glorious food.
·The ritual of the dining room was at the center of their lives.
"you sitting up straight, your evening gloves are on your lap, hidden under neath your napkin. you don't rest your hands on the table, you have to remember which course you're on for which wine."
red, water, white glasses
-"we always have three glasses, and there's the larger one for the red, slightly smaller for water, and then even smaller for the white wine."
-"the main thing I had to learn I think was posture, was this idea of sitting up straight.(absolutely bolt up right.)
The back of the chair was never for anyone to lean back on.
-that's purely decorative, and it's purely so that the footman has something to hold. Nannies used to put lnives here, to make children sit up straight.
understanding your cutlery was essential. failure to know your knives might lead to an embarrassing moment.
tea spoon, eggspoon, melonspoon ,grapefruit spoon, jam spoon, bouillon spoon (which is drunk from a smaller dish.)
-all the detail and sumptuous display and the manners reflect the struggle that they all have to achieve a similarly perfect moral approach to life.
·The immaculate presentation was a statement of moral correctness to all.
这种无可挑剔的礼仪是在展示道德的正确
-The Edwardians prized complexity. Perfection takes many hours, as it did for the Edwardian servants.
-Things have to be measured, so carson has arod with measurements on it, and that determines the place settings between each palce and the next, between the chair and the plate. everything is measured out precisely.
尺子用来测量盘子和刀叉,椅子和盘子之间的距离。一切都测量得精确。
-Each bulter would have a measuring stick to mark excatly where the table settings were in relation to each other.
-So,you'd start off by just taking the first mark and moving in the edge of the first knife. and then you'd be able to bring all the others in and then just bring it straight up to that line.
首先,确定一个标准,然后移动第一把餐刀,接着是所有的,只要靠在这条直线上就行。
-They didn't use their fingers without gloves on because otherwise it would have left a mark on the silver. and on the measuring points, they should be absolutely equidistant.
-When it's all perfect, the last thing they did was take a certain length and bring the chair out.
·NOTHING SUCCEEDS LIKE EXCESS.
-the point of a sumptuous table was toimpress their guests.一场豪华盛宴就是为了让客人赞叹。
-downstairs,who served what was also are flection of where power lay.
楼下的仆人们来说,谁来上哪道菜反映出谁大权在握。
first footman always take the meat. second footman will bring out the second, the sort of the sidedish or the vag.
第一男仆上荤菜第二男仆上第二道菜,通常是佐菜或素菜。
-The footman should be invisible. nothing interferes with the sociability of the table.
男仆尽量没有存在感,不打扰餐桌上的社交氛围。
-No one ever takes a bite before the hostess dose.在女主人动刀叉之前,没人敢动刀叉。
-She will decide which direction the conversation is going.她决定谈话的方向。
-Turning in dinner,meaning that the conversation will start in aparticular direction.在用餐时转身意味着可以开始与身边的人进行交谈。
The apparently effortless ritual of the dining room disguised its true purpose. it was a place to influence, a place to exercise power,a place to find a husband.
这些看似不着痕迹的餐桌礼仪却掩盖着它的真实目的。餐厅是一个显示声望,展示权利之地,也是找的如意郎君的地方。
● HOW TO MARRY
--Marriage among the ruling classes of Great Britain was seldon about love, but it was always about power and land.
大不列颠统治阶级的婚姻,很少与爱情相关,主要是以获取权利和土地为目的。
Land must, above all, be kept in one piece.土地不可分割。
In order to give a man the income to live by and the right by which he could rule the country.以保证男性继承人的收入来源和统治权力。
Women had absolutely no position or power until they were married, so they had to find a man who did.女人在结婚前没有地位和权利,所以她们必须嫁个有权有势的男人。
A young lady could not marry until she had been presented at court. it was the start of a busy year known as her "comingout".
年轻的贵族小姐要在宫廷里觐见陛下之后才能结亲。觐见标志着“成人礼”社交季的开始。
-You had a train over your hair, and the length of the train was absolutely, to a centimeter, controlled.
小姐们头上要戴头纱,而且头纱的长度有严格的要求,误差要在一厘米以内。
-from shoulder to floor,trains measured no less than three yard.从肩到脚长度不少于三码。
dressed up in white全身素白signified purity象征纯洁
with your feathers头饰羽毛
it's all really specific, how many feathers you have in your hair.羽毛数量也有讲究,依人而定。
number of feathers said who was who羽毛数量暗示身份
-Unmarried young ladies wore two,married chaperones wore three未婚少女戴两支已婚女性监护人戴三支
-A young lady's presentation to the king and queen was herentry into society.觐见是正式进入社交圈的开始。
It signaled she had the monarch's blessing as a suitable wife.它标志着她已经获得君主的赐福,会成为一个贤德的妻子。
Burke's Peerage《伯客氏贵族系谱》--a list of every title daristoc
-a combination of background cherk and bloodline,a nessential tool for making a match.
·the system they trapped in was a set of rules.束缚他们的制度由一套规则构成。
e.i.how little emotion you're allowed to show.
-you are not allowed to laugh, you're not allowed to love, certainly not allowed to cry.
·courtship is not permitted amongst servants
● HOW TO BEHAVE
·The rules they had to behave by were a mixture of straight forward practicality and fear.
他们遵循的行为规则有明确的实用性也暗含贵族的恐惧。
e.i.Just shake hands to express their emotions
e.i.You are my daughter and i love you, hard for british people to say these words.
The British hadn't always maintained as tiffupperlip.英国人倒不是一直都这么冷淡矜持
a centre yearlier, the passions of the French Revolutions oterrified the British aristocracy that a cool reserve become the definition of good character.法国大革命令英国贵族胆战心惊,以至于他们将冷淡矜持推行为一种优良品质。
there was a very real fear that without formality, the authority of the aristocracy would slip and society would fall apart.他们恐惧没有这种规矩约束,贵族的权威将不复存在,整个社会将分崩离析。
so,the aristocracy cultivated manners that protected their position.为了保住他们的地位
·Be very rude to be posh. So the rule was silent appreciation.
e.i.we don't say thank you for things.
when you're given a cup of tea, you wouldn't acknowledge the person who's giving it to you.
you pretend that they're not there.
贵族每天被服务30多次,每次都要说谢谢有点太多了==
e.i.the servants that pride themselves on being the best servants, are practically, you know, invisible in those moments.
the first rule of being a servant upstairs is discretion.第一条规则:要谨记的是守口如瓶。
terrified with scannal because the newspapers had just discovered how marketable gossip could be.绯闻的商机
for the first time, tittle-tattle wasn't just local; the whole country could suddenly know your shame.
the second is never to burden your master with your own problems.第二条规则:永远不要给你的主人添麻烦。
e.i.想恳求,想说“拜托了只要我能做的我都尽力去做。”但实际上不能这么说,也不会这么说。
-Might i make a suggestion that when an extra footman is required, the costs could come out of my wages. 府上添置另外的仆人,佣金可以从我的工资里面扣
because i am very eager to stay, m'lord. very eager indeed.
-i mean to help until you find something.
there's a finality to that, that both men know.
"It would be unseemly, it would be crude to be emotional, and to impose that on somebody would put them in an awkward position."
展现情绪是粗鲁的不得体的,把自己的情绪强加给对方会使双方进退两难。
e.i.Servants gives emotional support to their masters and mistresses.
If the servants face troubles, they'd probably face them alone.
e.i.For a working-classes woman, all she has was reputation.
·It's a strange relationship between servants and masters--very close but bound by rules.
-never ask a person nal question.
-never prompt a conversation.
-certainly wouldn't say anything judgmental about lordship's actions or thoughts.
● HOW TO DRESS
·Every detail meant something.
the aristocracy wore impractical, high-maintenance clothing that proclaimed privilege.
不实用,需要细心打理,但这显示出贵族的特权。
--it sort of said, "i don't have to do any work and i have help putting this on."
--we are in charge.
ladies' dress was extra vagantly elaborate and guided by my riadrules.
you only wear a tiara if you're married.
you have to leave your gloves on like pre- and post-dinner.
traveling gloves and dinner gloves and riding gloves.
such dress codes began centuries earlier in the sumptuary laws.几个世纪前的节约法令规定了一些着装要求。
these originally forbade anyone but them obility from wearing things like furor silk.除了贵族其他人不准穿毛皮和丝绸。
除了换衣服也做不了其他事情了
束胸衣
to freely move think talk eat do everything
·The clothes you wear alter the way you thinking
hats were terribly important. your hats said who you were.
if you were somewhere at the top of society--you were an aristocrat with a hugehouse--you were allowed to wear a top hat for smart occasions.出席正式场合可以戴大礼帽。
you'd wear whatever was comfortable because you had the money and the capability go through all
the different fashionable hats that were available, right down to the clothcap, which if you were a working class man is where you'd stay.布帽是工人阶级的常见装束。
a bowler hat圆顶礼帽
a trilby软毡帽
·Partof their"going out of doors"routine.
You use it as a means of being polity,normally just doffed your hat at somebody对他人致意时只需用手碰一下帽檐out of courtesy, or a woman.
If you have conversation with someone of your own degree, you'd take yourhatoffandyou'dtalktothem.与同阶层的人交谈,需要脱下帽子与他们交谈
● HOW TO MAKE MONEY
--They live off their land, and not having to find a job. The land made you money and life is good.
But their undisputed status as lords of the manor was threatened by men with new money
但是受封贵族们无可争辩的地位受到了暴发户们的威胁
:(ambitious men with pretentions to grandeur
派头十足野心勃勃
new money was loud, strident and successful.)
暴发户们是那些咋咋呼呼不可一世的成功人士
·the aristocracy had to counter this by labeling any mention of money as common.
谈及金钱的话题当做庸俗之举。
贵族的威胁:
Grains upplies from North America drove down the value of crops,进口粮食
tax reforms thearened inherited wealth.税制改革
·Knowing your place was the first rule and the last.
it's the point from which all manners sprang.
it's wasn't just the lower orders who had to know where they belonged; the aristocrats had to get it right too.不仅仅是佣人,贵族行事也需符合身份
e.i.your mother derives satisfaction from her work at the hospital, some sense of self-worth.would you really deny the same to poor old Molesley?
And when you are master here,is the butler to be dismissed or the footman?解雇管家和男仆
we all have different parts to play. and we must all be allowed to play them.
·The key to the aristocrat's view of the world was not privilege; it was duty.
The point of an aristocrat was to be of use to the land he owned and its people.
It was the perfect balance between privilege and responsibility.
3.CONCLUTIONS
The real secret behind the manners of DT, and the thing we all wor so hard to get right is that for them, this was effortless.